Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Under The Influence





As so often lately, when I saw this fashion story photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia I first loved it, but after a while the usual uncomfortable thought started to creep in. It is clear that Yves Saint Laurent's influence not only hasn't diminished after his death but it is every day stronger. Of course he put the pantsuit on the fashion map, and that can be considered a legacy, just as the leopard print (which he didn't invent, it was already used in the late XVIIIth century, but he certainly gave it a new life), the use of ethnic motifs and cultural references and his daring color combinations, only surpassed maybe by Lacroix in the 80's.


Maybe Marc Jacobs is honest when he channels YSL (his Resort 2009 collection is the clearest example, but not the only one), and maybe Frida Giannini's heavily influenced Spring 2011 collection for Gucci (1967's african collection collection, anyone?) had nothing to do with rumors at the time of Stephano Pilati's insecure position in the house (which fortunately for him turned out to be unproven), but aren't some designer going too far? Where is the line between a heartfelt tribute and a merciless re-hash? What is wrong with fashion that we can't envision something without resorting to the safety of past decades? Opinions, please.




Como tan a menudo últimamente, cuando vi este editorial fotografiado por Steven Meisel para Vogue Italia primero me encantó, pero al rato se fue infiltrando el mismo pensamiento incómodo de siempre. Está claro que la influencia de Yves Saint Laurent no solo no ha disminuido después de su muerte sino que es cada día más fuerte. Claro que él impuso el traje de pantalón, y se puede considerar un legado suyo, como el estampado de leopardo (que no inventó, ya se usaba a finales del siglo XVIII, pero sin duda le dio una nueva vida), el uso de motivos étnicos y referencias culturales y sus atrevidas mezclas de color, tal vez sólo superadas por Lacroix en los 80.


Puede que Marc Jacobs fuera sincero cuando reinterpreta a YSL (su colección Crucero 2009 es el ejemplo más claro pero no el úncio), y puede que la tremendamente influenciada colección Primavera 2011 de Frida Giannini para Gucci (la colección africana de 1967, ¿os suena?) no tuviera nada que ver con los rumores que circulaban de la insegura posición de Stephano Pilati en la casa (que afortunadamente para él resultaron no demostrarse), pero ¿no van demasiado demasiado lejos algunos diseñadores? ¿Donde está la línea entre un sentido homenaje y un despiadado refrito? ¿Qué está fallando en la moda actual para que no seamos capaces de ver algo sin recurrir a la seguridad de décadas pasadas? Opiniones, por favor.

17 comments:

Mandrágora said...

Muchos de los diseñadores que trabajan en las casas actuales se aprovechan como bien dices de "Homenajes" para crear colecciones completas y se aprovechan también de la falta de memoria de los medios, de la crítica y del público, que son los primeros en aplaudir colecciones fotocopiadas de otras.
Pero además como la tónica actual consiste en copiar aquello que es, o fue un hit, para vender mucho, pues se hace, y si el público se vuelve loco y va y lo compra, pues se ha hecho un negocio redondo. NO se invierte en diseño y se obtienen grandes ganancias, una pena!!

gratis total said...

El copieteo es la tendencia habitual, y no solo aquí, que vivimos en pleno templo del low cost, sino fuera. Como bien dices, el copieteo te hace ser más seguro en estos tiempos en los que tus inversores no te permiten arriesgar.

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willyvanrooy said...

The first thing I thought when I opened your blog was: YSL! And yes you are right and the whole atmosphere and some of the clothes are really recognisably Yves and I agree with Mandragora, its all a question of money. Like you say it is safer that way in very confusing unsafe times! In any case it is a fact that there are only a few really creative people in any field, any time, any place and the rest are followers. You certainly are an original, keep it up!

ANDYTOP said...

La crisis ha hecho aumentar el refrito, pero lleva años en la sartén.
Se está invirtiendo en valores seguros, el diseño se deja de lado y se apuesta por juegos de estilismo, incluso en las revistas, yo para ver en Vogue lo mismo que el catálogo de Mango, mejor no la compro.

Di said...

Hoy por hoy es difícilismo ver a diseñadores que sigan su propio camino.
Y la crisis no ayuda.

También diré que puestos a copiar mejor a YSL que a Alexander Wang, que hace un par de años estábamos viendo cada cosa...

ANDYTOP said...

Cierto Di, si ya que se copia que sea con nivel coño.

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Alegria said...

Yes Ale! exactly! I love the question you posed...where is the line between a heartfelt tribute and a merciless re-hash?? so true and profound, it happens much too often with designers that should do more than that but seem to be comfortable in their current state, maybe they lost their hunger? maybe they feel people are cattle that will buy the brand anyways...are WE at fault for actually buying just for the brand? Well thank God we still have true talent in design such as yourself amongst others that have a true sense of themselves. Thank you for the post. Love it!

alterego said...

Es que el maestro Saint Laurent es (en presente) muy grande. Demasiado grande para los mediocres.

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